De beste 47 Médoc crus classés 2004 en 2006

by Paul Op ten Berg

De beste 47 Médoc crus classés 2004 & 2006 (beoordeeld door een panel van Decanter met 5 resp. 4 sterren).

 

***** (3 wijnen)

Château Pontet-Canet, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac 2006

Very deep and concentrated Cabernet fruit, spice and fragrant perfume. Densely structured on the palate with lots of sweet, ripe fruit, minerals and lovely tannin integration. Dense, long and interesting. Delicious. 18.6pts/20
Price: £55–£92 Albany Vintners, Antique Wine Company, Bordeaux Cellar, Bordeaux Index, Bordeaux Wine Investments, Ditton Wine Traders, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, James Nicholson, LHK Fine Wines, R&B Wines, Slurp, Wine Invest, Wine Source
Drink: 2013–2026.
Alc: 13%

Château Leoville Poyferré, 2CC, St-Julien 2004

Deep crushed berry, perfumed mint, ripe blackcurrant, robust black cherry, mocha and stylish menthol oak bouquet. This has breadth and concentration with grippy, ripe tannins giving plenty of room for the fruit to sing. Still needs time. 18.5pts/20
Price: £49–£65 City Wine Collection, Fine & Rare, Morgan Classic Wines, R&B Wines, Yapp Brothers
Drink: 2012–2022.
Alc: 13.5%

Château Rauzan-Gassies, 2CC, Margaux 2006

Perfumed, elegant and complex bouquet of red and black fruit, bitter chocolate and dark cherry. Lots of stuffing and concentration of flavour with good florality and natural ripeness. A well-made, polished wine. 18.5pts/20
Price: £25–£30 Fine & Rare, Millesima, Winedirect
Drink: 2013–2020.
Alc: 13%

***** (44 wijnen)

Château Léoville Barton, 2CC, St-Julien 2006

Complex, dark spice, charred new oak, chocolate and leafy cassis bouquet. Sleek and integrated with rich tannin, milk chocolate and tobacco. Classic. Really enjoyable. 18pts/20
Price: £39.90–£74 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Cadman Fine Wines, Coe Vintners, Corney & Barrow, Four Walls Wine, Hennings, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler, Waitrose Wine Direct, Wine Source
Drink: 2015+.
Alc: 12.5%

Château Marquis d’Alesme, 3CC, Margaux 2006

Smoky dark fruit, toast, vanilla and perfumed aroma. Ripe, full bodied and open, with a minerally complexity and an expressively fine, generous finish. Very silky in texture and well knit – quite a weighty Margaux. 18pts/20
Price: £21 Fine & Rare
Drink:
2015+.
Alc: 13%

Château Palmer, 3CC, Margaux 2006

Delicate, lifted, savoury, tart red fruit, blackberry, cherry and oak bouquet. With zest and charm, it is delicate but not frail. Elegant and harmonious with fine acidity, fine-grained tannins and a lovely, confident finish. 17.67pts/20
Price: £112–£132 Bibendum, Bordeaux Index, Coe Vintners, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis, L’Assemblage, Interest in Wine, Nebuchadnezzar, R&B Wines, Waitrose Wine Direct
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 13%

Château Prieuré-Lichine, 4CC, Margaux 2006

Vigorous, spicy, cedary nose with well-judged oak, black fruit, liquorice, chocolate and floral perfume. Very sleek and supple wine with everything in the right place. Poised, with a fine attack, silky texture and beautiful balance. 17.67pts/20
Price: £25–£35 Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Interest in Wine, Lea & Sandeman, Wine Source
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 13%

Château Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, 2CC, Pauillac 2004

Fine fragrant and floral fruit, cedar and spice on the nose. All elegance and depth with a suave texture, although has firm, ripe underlying tannins. Complex, vigorous and spicy with ample energy and zest. 17.63pts/20
Price: £77–£90 Bibendum, Bordeaux Index, Everywine, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, James Nicholson, Occidental & Oriental Cellars, Roberson
Drink: 2012–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Beychevelle, 4CC, St-Julien 2006

Sweet, ripe nose of game, cedar, toast – high toned, has class! Layers of finesse. The tannins are still firm but there is lovely sticky fruit in the middle. Has lift and poise – a classic, delightful, persistent St-Julien. 17.5pts/20
Price: £49.95–£101.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bibendum, Cadman Fine Wines, Coe Vintners, Fine & Rare, Hennings, Nebuchadnezzar, Occidental & Oriental Cellars, Richard Hawes, Robert Rolls, Wine Invest, Wine Source
Drink: 2015+.
Alc: 13%

Château Lagrange, 3CC, St-Julien 2006

Lush, spicy, vibrant nose of meat, graphite, cherry, blackcurrant, oak and hedgerow. Rich, silky, polished effort – creamy fruit, firm tannins and a long, expressive finish. 17.5pts/20
Price: £29–£47 Balthazar, Bon Coeur, Exel Wines, Fine & Rare, Handford, John Frazier, Interest in Wine, Millesima, Nebuchadanezzar, Uncorked, Underwood Wine, Wine Circle, WoodWinters
Drink: 2015 +.
Alc: 13%

Château Leoville Barton, 2CC, St-Julien 2004

Good concentration and ripe fruit on the nose offering notes of menthol, hedgerow, dense oak and herbs. Broad, lush, concentrated and packed with fruit. Has very good vineyard origins, depth and precision. 17.5pts/20
Price: £45.60–£56 Antique Wine Company, En Primeur Ltd, Everywine, Exel Wines, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis, House of Townend, Nickolls & Perks
Drink: 2012–2022.
Alc: 13%

Château Lynch-Bages, 5CC, Pauillac 2006

Black fruit, spice, cedar, fragrant Cabernet florality and animal aromas. Good, broad yet precise flavours with natural acidity, elegance and delicious balance. Complex. 17.5pts/20
Price: £67–£93 Albany Vintners, Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Ditton Wine Traders, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, L’Assemblage, Nebuchadnezzar, Wine Source
Drink: 2015–2027.
Alc: 13%

Château Branaire-Ducru, 4CC, St-Julien 2006

Cassis, black cherry, menthol, clove and savoury bouquet. Well-made, modern style with good grip and bite. Sleek with a powerful finish. Will be very good. 17.33pts/20
Price: £28–£45 Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, D&A Wines, Fine & Rare, Fortnum & Mason, Justerini & Brooks, Laithwaites, Millesima, Nickolls & Perks, Premier Vintners, South Downs Cellars, Turville Valley Wines, Winedirect
Drink: 2014+.
Alc: 13%

Château Langoa Barton, 3CC, St-Julien 2004

Deep, elegant Cabernet fragrance of dark fruit, pretty hedgerow and nice perfume. Warmth, breadth and depth of black fruit – fresh acidity breaks up the concentration. Silky and polished with lots of tannin. 17.25pts/20
Price: £26–£32 Bablake Wines, Bennetts, Bordeaux Index, House of Townend, Lay & Wheeler, Seckford, Underwood Wine, Wilkinson Vintners, The Wine Society
Drink: 2011–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Pontet-Canet, 5CC, Pauillac 2004

A classic, pretty nose of floral cassis, gentle wood spice, lush black fruit, chocolate, oak and spice. Lush, creamy, full bodied and tannic, with lots of room for the fruit. 17.25pts/20
Price: £56–£60 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Vintners,
City Wine Collection, Eton Vintners, Fine & Rare, L’Assemblage, Lea & Sandeman, R&B Wines, Roberson, Slurp
Drink: 2013–2025.
Alc: 13%

Château Durfort-Vivens, 2CC, Margaux 2006

Fine aromatic nose of cedar, coffee, fruit compote laced with a herbal note. Nicely fine tannins and a nice core of sweet yet fresh fruit. Vigorous and confident red with a lovely balance. Has a lot of finesse and concentration. 17.17pts/20
Price: £23–£36.50 Fine & Rare, George Hill of Loughborough, James Nicholson, Stainton Wines
Drink: 2014 +.
Alc: 13%

Château Cos d’Estournel, 2CC, St-Estèphe 2006

Lean, spicy, savoury, oaky, dark berry and tobacco leaf bouquet. Firm but well put together. Lush, suave, juicy and straightforward with lots of fruit and complexity. 17pts/20
Price: £73–£105 Bibendum, Bordeaux Index, Cadman Fine Wines, Fine & Rare, Farr Vintners, John Frazier, Le Bon Vin, Marc Fine Wines, Millesima, Premier Vintners, Sunday Times Wine Club, Wine Rack
Drink: 2015+.
Alc: 13.5%

Château Gruaud Larose, 2CC, St-Julien 2004

Elegant Cabernet bouquet of smoke, dark fruit, cedar and pretty top notes. Good, broad, quite earthy flavours with both power and elegance. Has a beautiful texture, good acidity and good integration of tannin. 17pts/20
Price: £29–£41 Bablake Wines, Bennetts, Bibendum, Bon Coeur, Decorum Vintners, Goedhuis, Hennings, Imperial Wine, James Nicholson, Millesima
Drink: 2011–2018.
Alc: 13%

Château La Tour Carnet, 4CC, Haut-Médoc 2004

A nice fragrant Cabernet lift with meat and spice perfume. Good fruity length, good concentration and moderate complexity. Stylish and elegant – a very good wine for 2004. 17pts/20
Price: £33–£36 Averys, Fine & Rare, Telegraph Wines
Drink: 2011–2018.
Alc: 13%

Château Montrose, 2CC, St-Estèphe 2004

Voluptuous bouquet of blackcurrant, blackberry, coffee, cloves and tar. Bright, complex and attractive wine with firm tannins giving grip. This has swagger, opulence and power; very appetising. 17pts/20
Price: £55–£61 Bordeaux Index, City Wine Collection, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, James Nicholson, Morgan Classic Wines, Robert Rolls, Wilkinson Vintners Nicholson, Morgan
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 13%

Château Pichon Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, 2CC, Pauillac 2006

Attractive perfume of spicy cassis, lavish oak, cocoa and savoury complexity. Rich, plump, complex, full bodied and very concentrated with powerful tannins. Well structured with bags of life ahead of it. 17pts/20
Price: £92 Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare, Four Walls Wine, Nebuchadnezzar, Roberson, Wine Invest, Z&B Vintners
Drink: 2016+.
Alc: 13%

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, 2CC, Pauillac 2006

Rich blackcurrant, blackberry, sweet oak, chocolate, herbs and floral perfume. Vibrant, broad, rich and fleshy – a polished effort. Weighty and tannic, more power than finesse but with depth and intensity. 17pts/20
Price: £55–£70 Antique Wine Company, Bancroft Wines, Bordeaux Wine Investments, Farr Vintners, Justerini & Brooks, Roberson, Robert Rolls, Z&B Vintners
Drink: 2015+.
Alc: 13%

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, 2CC, Pauillac 2004

Fine, concentrated aroma of floral blue fruit, flamboyant oak, blackcurrant, herb and lead pencil. Grippy and rich with some muscle behind it. A sensuous, complex, spicy and textured red which is fresh and accessible. 17pts/20
Price: £60–£73 Blake’s Fine Wines, Everywine, Fine & Rare, Four Walls Wine, Wine Invest, The Wine Society
Drink: 2012–2018.
Alc: 13.5%

Château Rauzan-Ségla, 2CC, Margaux 2006

Sweet polish, confected red fruit, lifted blackcurrant and char on the nose. Sleek, quite
concentrated, supple and relatively forward with moderate tannins and acidity. Rich, balanced and confident wine.
17pts/20
Price: £52–£82 Edencroft Wines, Exel Wines, Goedhuis, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, Laytons, Millesima, Milroys of Soho, Soho Wine Supply, Thomas Peatling
Drink: 2012+.
Alc: 13%

Château Haut-Bages Libéral, 5CC, Pauillac 2004

Nice concentration of black fruit, earth, char, sweet liqueur and leaf on the nose. Super-ripe, concentrated, majestic and almost impenetrable. Built to last. 16.88pts/20
Price: £21–£42.50 Bon Coeur, Bordeaux Wine Selections, Fine & Rare, Chamberlain Wines, Fortnum & Mason, Lay & Wheeler, Millesima, Nebuchadnezzar, Private Cellar, Waterloo Wine, The Wine Society
Drink: 2013–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Lagrange 3CC, St-Julien 2004

Complex and defined briary fruit, herbs, spice and wood aroma. Very creamy and beautifully managed tannins with real bite in the middle. Quite lively, persistent fruit and a silky texture. Very fine. 16.88pts/20
Price: £29–£39 Blake’s Fine Wines, Bordeaux Index, Handford, Millesima, Morgan Classic Wines, Seckford, Thomas Peatling
Drink: 2012–2018.
Alc: 13%

Château d’Armailhac, 5CC, Pauillac 2006

Classic aromas of graphite, cassis, spice, cherries, espresso and cedar. Sleek, suave attack with fine-grained tannins. Fine acidity, ample grip, long and aromatic. 16.83pts/20
Price: £32–£49.95 Bordeaux Wine Selections, Cairns & Hickey, Fine & Rare, John Frazier, Millesima, Nebuchadnezzar, R&B Wines, Sandhams Wine Merchants, Slurp, The Wine Society
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 13%

Château Kirwan, 3CC, Margaux 2004

Firm blackcurrant, oak and liquorice aroma – very rich for Margaux. Quite rich and meaty/ fleshy fruit but also good depth and fragrance. Oak is still evident but it will be very good. Plenty of life in it. 16.75pts/20
Price: £24–£43 Alexander Wines, Bablake Wines, Bennetts, Christopher Keiller, City Wine Collection, Corks Out, Fine & Rare, Formula Wine
Drink: 2012–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Lafon-Rochet, 4CC, St-Estèphe 2004

Good, fragrant Cabernet lift and roasted meat bouquet. Silky, fresh and beautifully balanced palate with very good firmness and length. Excellent concentration of pure, fresh fruit. Lovely. 16.75pts/20
Price: £24–£33 Blake’s Fine Wines, Decorum Vintners, Fine & Rare, Millesima, Private Cellar, R&B Wines, Tanners, Vintage Cellars
Drink: 2013–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Calon-Ségur, 3CC, St-Estèphe 2004

Sweet, juicy blackcurrant and graphite on the nose – classic St-Estèphe! The fruit is creamy yet leafy – classic in the best sense of the word. It has tannic grip and plenty of lift and spice. Built to last. 16.67pts/20
Price: £30.50–£63 Ann et Vin, Bablake Wines, Bordeaux Wine Selections, Exel Wines, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Millesima, Private Cellar, Wine Invest
Drink: 2014+.
Alc: 13%

Château Cantermerle, 5CC, Haut-Médoc 2006

Fresh, lifted and stylish nose of zest, cedar, blackberry, cherry, sweet blue fruit. Fresh, attractively straightforward wine with a buttery, creamy texture and very silky tannins. The finish is good – no expense spared – but it’s all very serious. 16.67pts/20
Price: £22–£35 Antique Wine Company, Bibendum, Eton Vintners, Hennings, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage
Drink: 2012+.
Alc: 13%

Château d’Issan, 3CC, Margaux 2006

Lifted, smoky, perfumed, cedary Médoc nose. Very good balance of well-extracted fruit and ripe tannins leading to a smooth finish. Understated wine where the sweet fruit comes in on the finish. Good length and evolving interest. 16.67pts/20
Price: £37–£52 Blake’s Fine Wines, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis, Harrods, Millesima, Nebuchadnezzar, Wine-Store
Drink: 2013–2020.
Alc: 12.5%

Château Haut-Batailley, 5CC, Pauillac 2006

High-toned briary fruit, vigorous oak, savoury and meaty aromas. Fresh attack on the palate – more luminous than the nose, with grip, structure and verve. Still tight and youthful with
excellent potential.
16.67pts/20
Price: £23–£29 Berry Bros & Rudd, Goedhuis, LHK Fine Wines, Marc Fine Wines, Millesima, Morgan Classic Wines, Richard Kihl
Drink: 2015+.
Alc: 13%

Château La Tour Carnet, 4CC, Haut-Médoc 2006

Ripe aroma of oak, meat and black cherry. Rich, suave and quite concentrated with a nice, creamy mouthfeel and firm tannins giving some grip. Has some vigour, drive and a minty finish. Very promising. 16.67pts/20
Price: £24–£29 Bon Coeur, Bordeaux Cellar, En Primeur Ltd, Eton Vinters, Fine & Rare
Drink: 2011+.
Alc: 13.5%

Château Lafon-Rochet, 4CC, Saint-Estèphe 2006

A rich, lifted nose of plum, black cherry, liquorice spice, mineral and menthol. Juicy wine with plenty of upfront fruit which is spicy and tangy. Chewy tannins and a big aromatic finish. 16.67pts/20
Price: £24–£28 Bon Coeur, Fine & Rare, Hennings, L’Assemblage, R&B Wines, Winedirect
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 13%

Château Leoville Poyferré, 2CC, Saint-Julien 2006

Deep, dark, juicy fruit, spice and smoke on the nose. Fine purity of expression and good depth of fruit with integrated tannin and good acidity and balance. Elegant. 16.67pts/20
Price: £39–£49 Antique Wine Company, Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Bordeaux Wine Investments, L’Assemblage, Robert Rolls, Waitrose Wine Direct, Winedirect, Z&B Vintners
Drink: 2013–2020.
Alc: 13%

Château Saint-Pierre, 4CC, Saint-Julien 2006

Precise, exuberant and flamboyantly toasty nose with blackcurrant, cherry and tar. Very ripe and aromatic, more rustic than some. Balanced by firm tannins and plenty of spice and grip, it is lifted, complex and lively. 16.67pts/20
Price: £37–£50 Albany Vintners, Berry Bros & Rudd, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Fine & Rare, Millesima, Premier Vintners, Seckford
Drink: 2014+.
Alc: 13%

Château Boyd-Cantenac, 3CC, Margaux 2004

Charred wood, black cherry, herbaceous, dark fruit liqueur and floral perfume. Silky smooth on the mouth with good acidity and well-balanced tannins. Elegant wine with plenty of tobacco at the end. Very good. 16.63pts/20
Price: £29–£31 Fine & Rare, Tesco Wine by the Case
Drink: 2011–2018.
Alc: 13%

Château Dauzac, 5CC, Margaux 2004

Stylish plum schnapps and blackcurrant fragrance. Fine, elegant and fragrant fruit on the palate, showing good purity and vineyard origin. Ripe tannins support the concentrated fruit. Has weight and grandeur. 16.63pts/20
Price: £33–£36 All About Wine, Bibendum
Drink: 2012–2017.
Alc: 13%

Château d’Issan, 3CC, Margaux 2004

Good concentrated aroma of black fruit, char, animal, meat and floral notes. Silky and concentrated palate with ripe tannins, good complexity to come and quite earthy ripeness. Harmonious and long. 16.63pts/20
Price: £34–£59.95 Bibendum, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis, Harrods, Millesima
Drink: 2012–2017.
Alc: 12.5%

Château Duhart-Milon, 4CC, Pauillac 2004

Earth, briary fruit, crème de cassis, oak, cedar and herb on the nose. Creamy and rich palate with excellent, juicy fruit in the middle, even some complexity. Has plenty of tannin despite the supple texture. Has vigour and grip. 16.63pts/20
Price: £112–£124 Albany Vintners, Everywine, Fine & Rare, Turville Valley Wines, Wine Invest
Drink: 2012+.
Alc: 13%

Château Belgrave, 5CC, Haut-Médoc 2004

Aromas of yeast and meat. Tannic wine though not without some charm and not four-square. Bright and open with good savoury fruit, it is drinking pretty well. Forward and delicious. 16.5pts/20
Price: £24–£36 Edencroft Wines, Millesima, Wine Store
Drink: 2013+.
Alc: 12.5%

Château Brane-Cantenac, 2CC, Margaux 2004

Vegetal, spicy oak, Turkish Delight, red fruit perfume. Elegant balance with grainy tannin,
fresh acidity, earthy, briary fruit and nice length. Supple and juicy.
16.5pts/20
Price: £28.50–£37.50 Bennetts Wine Warehouse, Blake’s Fine Wines, En Primeur Ltd, Fine & Rare, James Nicholson, Imperial Wine
Drink: 2011–2017.
Alc: 13%

Château Lynch-Bages, 5CC, Pauillac 2004

Sweet smoke, cigar-box, lifted mocha, vibrant red and black fruit aroma. Good depth, length and elegance. Juicy and harmonious, forward but no rush to drink. 16.5pts/20
Price: £50–£110 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bibendum, Cadman Fine Wines, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Hailsham Cellars, James Nicholson, Lea & Sandeman, Roberson
Drink: 2011–2017.
Alc: 13%

Château Marquis de Terme, 4CC, Margaux 2004

Fragrant, light and delicate nose of red fruit and rubber. Sappy and bright palate with good elegant fruit, lots of perfume and enough tannins to give some grip. Enjoyable – showing good Margaux elegance and length. 16.5pts/20
Price: £22 Blake’s Fine Wines, Fine & Rare
Drink: 2011–2017.
Alc: 12.5%

The Médoc crus classés 2004 and 2006 tasters were:

· Gareth Birchley - a judge on the 2010 DWWA Bordeaux panel. He works at fine wine trader Bordeaux Index;

· Stephen Brook - a Decanter contributing editor and the author of the award-winning book The Complete Bordeaux;

· Steven Spurrier - Decanter's consultant editor, and a renowned expert on Bordeaux and its vintages;

· Simon Davies - head of marketing at Fine & Rare Wines, one of the UK's leading stockists of Bordeaux;

· Beverley Blanning MW - an independent wine journalist and author, and regular Decanter contributor and Decanter World Wine Awards judge;

· Margaret Rand - the former editor of Wine, the author of Grapes & Wines, and general editor of Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book.